Clothing Material Science ----- Basic Knowledge of Clothing (Continued 8)

(5) Medium and long fiber fabric

1. Characteristics of medium long fiber fabric

Medium-length fiber refers to a fiber between wool-type and cotton-type chemical short fibers. It is not a new variety of chemical fiber, it can be processed from various chemical fibers, and its length and fineness are between cotton fiber and wool fiber. Therefore, there are viscose medium-length fibers, rich-strength medium-length fibers and polyester, nylon, nitrile, acrylic, chlorine, vinylon and other medium-length fibers. Summarize the characteristics of various chemical fiber medium and long fiber fabrics and draw the following conclusions:

â‘´The medium-length fiber fabric has good elasticity and is not easy to wrinkle when worn.

⑵The medium-length fiber fabric is stiff and thick, and the hand feels plump. It can be kept flat and new, and the hair feels strong after repeated washing.

⑶The medium-long fiber fabric has a slippery feeling, the shrinkage rate is small, and it is not easy to deform after ready-made.

2. Variety of medium-long fiber fabrics

There are many varieties of mid-length fiber fabrics, mainly polyester-acrylic, polyester-viscose blended fabrics and "three-in-one" fabrics.

(1) The polyester / nitrile mid-length fabric is blended with a polyester / nitrile ratio of 50:50 or 60:40. For example, the polyester / nitrile blended mid-length concealed fabric has a wooly feel, and the fabric is straight, anti-wrinkle and iron-free. Ideal fabric for jacket selection.

⑵The polyester-viscose mid-length fabric is blended with polyester / viscose ratio of 55:45 or 65:35. For example, the polyester-viscose mid-length plain weave is similar in style to the above-mentioned hidden stripe. It is also a popular imitation of the public. Hair products are often used for spring and autumn outerwear.

⑶ "Three in one" fabric is made of polyester, nitrile and viscous medium-long fiber blends. The fabric has the characteristics of three kinds of fibers and the price is moderate. It is suitable for suits, jackets and trousers.

(6) New chemical fiber fabrics

1. Characteristics of new chemical fiber fabrics

The so-called new-type chemical fiber fabrics should be classified into the above-mentioned various fiber fabrics in terms of raw materials. However, because these fabrics show unique novelty in terms of appearance style, processing characteristics and wearing performance, they are listed separately so that we can better understand and use them. New chemical fiber fabrics have the following characteristics:

â‘´ Fiber has a brand new structure and novel physical mechanical and aesthetic properties.

⑵The fabric composed of heterogeneous components composed of silk with different fineness, shrinkage and cross-sectional shape, has a unique appearance style, feel and special taking performance. These heterogeneous filaments include air network filaments, twisted textured filaments, fancy heterogeneous filaments, core-spun filaments and wrapped stretch yarns.

⑶ The trend of multi-functionalization is obvious, which is suitable for special industrial use and more suitable for taking textiles, especially fashion materials.

2. New types of chemical fiber fabrics

Due to the modification treatment and deformation processing of chemical fiber, new types of chemical fiber fabrics are increasing. Here are some of the more popular varieties on the market, in order to broaden their horizons and grasp the trend of fashion.

â‘´Acetate fiber fabrics: mostly called acetate fiber fabrics, which are produced by regenerating cellulose fibers such as natural wood, so they are artificial cellulose fibers. Many of its properties are similar to viscose fibers, but the difference is that the elasticity is better than viscose. Therefore, the dimensional stability of the garments made by it is not easy to produce wrinkles.

⑵ Lycra fiber fabric: also known as Lycra fabric (LYCRA), is an elastic fiber fabric first introduced by DuPont, namely spandex fabric. Because a small amount of Lycra fiber is used, the style of the garment can be kept unchanged, and it can achieve good drape performance that cannot be achieved by conventional rigid textiles, so it has become a new hot spot in garment fabrics. At present, Lycra fiber fabric has been widely used in clothing, swimming and sports fields, especially in the socks and tights market is very tight.

⑶ "Luo Ying" fiber fabric: from "RAYON" transliteration. It is a viscose fiber fabric. Its processing method is unique. The fabric has a shiny and discoloration effect, so it becomes a good fashion fabric.

â‘·Triacetate-polyamide wool-like fabric: a deformed heterogeneous silk fabric composed of triacetate textured yarn and polyamide core yarn, has a very good appearance wool-like effect, even more than combed wool fabric, on clothing Is being widely used.

⑸Tencel fiber fabric: it belongs to the environmentally friendly "green fiber" fabric that is popular today, and is the trade name of industrially produced Lyocell fiber. A new type of regenerated cellulose fiber, invented by the Dutch company AKZO and authorized by the British Courtaulds company. Its fiber morphology and processing are similar to synthetic fibers. Therefore, it combines the excellent properties of synthetic fibers and natural fibers. It has the comfort similar to cotton fiber, and because of its strength similar to polyester, its wet strength is higher than that of cotton fiber and viscose fiber. The finished garment has excellent shape retention and drape.

Section 4 Other Apparel Fabrics 1. Knitted Apparel Fabrics Apparel fabrics can be divided into woven fabrics, knitted fabrics and nonwoven fabrics, etc. according to different textile processes. The apparel fabrics introduced above are all woven fabrics with vertical interweaving of warp yarns and weft yarns. Knitted fabrics are different from them. They are formed by knitting needles and other loop-forming machines to form yarns and loop them into one another. Knitted fabrics have always been used to make underwear because of good elasticity, extensibility and softness, but with the development of textile science and technology and the improvement of craftsmanship, as well as the transformation and update of people's ideas, today's knitwear clothing has passed The underwear has developed into outerwear. At the same time, knitted fabrics have also been widely used in decorative products, industrial dust filter cloths and medical and sanitary products. All this shows that the knitted apparel materials are developing rapidly, and their varieties are extremely rich and diverse.

(1) Characteristics of knitted fabrics

According to different production methods, knitted fabrics can be divided into weft knitted fabrics and warp knitted fabrics. Compared with woven fabrics, it has the following unique features:

1. Has a soft feel. Knitted fabric is made of coiled string, its knitting density is small, and the needle

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